Inept Handyman

Doors in your house receive a lot of abuse especially interior doors. With all the use, plus humidly changes and all the layers of paint over the years they can have different problems.

They might start sticking and rubbing against the door frame. Sometimes they will not even latch properly. Many of these problems can be easily fixed without having to hire a professional. In many cases the door might not even have to be removed to fix the problem.

Problems Caused by Humidity
Wood absorbs the moisture in the air. As the humidity changes it can cause the doors to warp or swell do to the expansion and contraction of the wood. Different woods react differently but they will still experience these problems. The other parts of a door can become problem too with all the use. These include the hinges, handles and door knobs. The longer you let these problems exist, the more strain you will add to all the components of the door system. If a door is sticking or rubbing against the door frame, it can add excessive pressure and strain to the hinges and latching mechanism.

If high humidity is a problem in your home, you might want to invest in a dehumidifier to keep the amount of moisture lower. This will also reduce mold and mildew than can also start to grow in the room.

How to locate the Problem of a Sticking Door
There are two main causes for a sticking or rubbing door. The first is a door that has expanded due to humidity. The second is the door and frame is not aligned.

Most of the time, a sticking door or on that rubs against the frame is an easy repair and easy to locate. First look at the sides of the door and around the frame. You should see rub marks where the two surfaces are rubbing. If this does not work and you cannot see any rubbing, take a thin piece cardboard and slide it between the door and the frame to see where the door and frame are to rubbing. Mark that area with a pencil and sand it with medium grade sandpaper. If this does not work, you might need to use a plane to reduce the door surface. You can accomplish this task with the door still hung; just use a rubber wedge on both sides of the door to hold it in place. Remember, you will probably want to paint the surface when done, and that will add some thickness back to the area.

An alignment problem can be for two reasons, first the hinges are not aligned due to the mounting screws have gotten loose or stretched. The second is the house might have settled and the door frame is not square. Look at the door while closed and see if the top edge of the door is parallel with the door frame. If the door is not parallel or looks like it is “leaning” you need to realign the door.

Look at the door and if the space is less on top close to the hinged side and a larger space on the latch side, it is probably do to the upper hinges have come loose or the whole frame is out of plumb. Plumb means the door frame is leaning in the wall. This can happen as a house settles and the walls lean. Since you are not about to raise the foundation or tear down a wall, the best solution is to align the door to match the frame.

If you tighten the upper hinges and the door does not line up, you will have to do one of two adjustments. You will either need to use a thin shim of wood or even cardboard behind the lower hinge or slightly reduce the area behind the top hinge. To add a shim to the lower hinge, open the door to an approximate 45 degree angle and wedge it from both sides to hold it still. This should give you access to the hinge screws to loosen a little and behind the door to insert the shim. Remember, you just need to move the hinge out a little.

If you need to reduce the wood behind the upper hinge, again wedge the door open. Unscrew the screws of the upper hinge and swing the hinge plate out of the way. Then using medium grade sandpaper, or a wood chisel, gently remove a thin layer of wood. Do this in gradual increments and test. You do not want to remove too much. If the amount removed is more than a thin layer, you might need to reduce some wood behind the middle hinge. This will be less then what you removed from the upper hinge.

If you find any screw is loose and the screw hole in the wood is stripped, all you need is a wooden match stick or any thin piece of a soft wood. Find a piece that will fit in the hole. Apply a little wood glue to the sides and push into the hole. If the hole is too small, you might want to drill it out a little. Blow out any loose powder or wood shavings and then insert the filler. Let dry a few minutes and then drill a small pilot hole and insert the screw. Tighten but do not over tighten to strip the hole again.

How to Repair Interior Latches that Stick
Sometimes the latches stick or do not latch fully. The first reason might be caused by a leaning door. Once you fix the leaning problem, it might fix the latch. If the latch still does not function, use a pencil and liberally apply to the end of the latch that will rub on the plate when closing. Close the door and reopen. Look on the latch plate for the pencil graphite markings. If the latch does not line up, carefully chisel out the frame to lower the plate. You will probably have to fill in the original screw holes with and re-drill for the new location.

If there is too much space between the latch plate and the door and the plate is recessed too deep into the wood frame, you can one or a few thin plastic shims. Use the latch plate as a template to cut the plastic shims to size and to cut holes for the screws and latch.
As you will see, most of these problems can be fixed easily with the minimum of tools. Just take your time to identify the cause and repair the problem. These easy repairs will give you more confidence to grow to bigger repairs and you will save money at the same time.

Nobody wants a hole in the wall. Repairing holes in walls is not as difficult a problem as many a home handyman might think even if the whole is large. The following tips will give you step by step instructions for the do-it-yourself handyman.

Small Holes

If the hole is small from screws or nails, you do not need to do any patching at all. All you need is to apply a thin coat of spackle. Use a thin putty knife and apply the spackle to the wall. Get a small amount of spackle on the knife and by holding it with an angle and gentle pressure, press the spackle to the wall, and slide the knife slowly until the hole is filled. If the hole is not filled in on the first pass of the knife, repeat this procedure. After the spackle dries, gently sand smooth and paint to match wall.

Medium Holes

For a medium size hole there are drywall repair kits available. The kit contains a metal or nylon mesh to stick to the wall around the hole. You then apply spackle to cover the hole and the mesh. You can also push crumpled newspaper through the hole to fill the gap. Make sure the paper is recessed from the wall opening and leaves enough room to fill with the spackle. You might have to apply spackle a few times to fill the hole, level with the wall. After the spackle is dry, gently sand smooth and level with the wall and paint.

Large Holes

If the whole is large, you might need to patch the opening with a new piece of drywall. Cut a piece of drywall for the patch a little larger than the existing hole. While holding the patch against the wall, scribe around the edge to be able to cut away the wall opening to match the patch. You can apply drywall tape inside the hole opening to hold the patch. Another trick is to attach a narrow piece of wooden on the inside of the wall. You insert the wood and while holding it in place use drywall screws through the wall and the wood. Then place the patch into the opening and with the use of drywall screws, attach the patch to the wood. Then apply a thin coat of spackle to the edges of the patch and to cover the heads of the screws. Then apply drywall tape over the edges and reapply another thin coat of spackle. After the spackle is completely dry, sand smooth and paint.

To make sure the paint will match the existing wall color, it is best to bring a piece of the existing wall that was removed to the paint store. They will be able to match the color.

The home toilet is a fairly simple device. When there is a problem, it is not very difficult to repair with a few simple tools and an open mind to figure out what is causing the problem.The tool most needed is a pair of Channel lock pliers or an adjustable wrench.

The Science of a toilet

The system that empties the water and waste and refills the tank is relatively easy to understand. Water will always seek level its self. Inside the base of the bowl is an “S” trap. As the water is released into the bowl, the water will rise and then pour over the top of the “S”. As this happens, it will cause a siphoning affect and pull the water and waste through the “S” trap. This will continue until the speed of the water slows and the siphoning stops. Then water will continue to pour into the tank to the level of the top of the “S” trap.

There are two main areas of a toilet, the bowl and the tank. The bowl has no mechanical or moving parts except the seat and the seat cover. The tank has four areas.

1. There is the Lever that is connected to the handle you press to flush the toilet. On the inside of the tank, the lever raises and lifts a flapper with a lift chain that releases the water into the tank.

2. The Flapper is a rubber piece that covers the flush valve seat. This is what keeps the water in the tank until flushing. When it is raised to flush the toilet, it will stay up until the tank is empty and then fall back to seal the flush valve seat.

3. There is another non-mechanical part and that is the overflow tube. The overflow tube is a tube vertically in the tank and is a safety device. If the Fill Valve does not shut off, once the water reaches the level of the top of the tube, the water will pour into the tube instead of overflowing the tank. This is also where water will flow from the valve to refill the bowl and the end of the flush cycle.

4. The main device is the Toilet Filling Valve. This is a device that allows water to fill the tank. The water supply is connected to the valve through the bottom of the tank. At the top is the actual valve which controls the operation of allowing water to run to fill the tank. Water flow stopped by some device that will float with the water level and once it reaches the desired level, it will close the valve to stop the water flow filling the tank. While filling the tank, there is a hose that is comes from the valve to the top of the overflow tube to refill the bowl. With this basic knowledge you will better understand the causes of most problems and what needs to be adjusted or replaced.

Before you start any repairs, you should familiarize yourself with the parts and also locate the water shutoff valve. Many homes have a water supply valve at the wall that will shut off water flow to the toilet. Locate this and test it to be sure it works. Also find the main water shutoff valve for the house in case the one by the toilet is not functional.

Running Toilet

One of the most common problems is a running toilet. There are two main reasons to cause this. The first is the Flapper Valve is not sealing the Toilet Filling Valve. Flapper Valves are made of rubber and over time can decompose, warp or crack. Since it is not sealing correctly, water will leak into the tank. There are different styles so it is advisable to remove the defective piece and take it to the store to match the correct replacement.

To replace the flapper, first turn off the water supply to the toilet. The existing flapper is usually easy to remove just look where it connects to its base.

Another reason you might have a running toilet is the valve is not shutting off before the water reaches the top of the overflow tube. This level should be approximately 1/8” to ¼” below the top edge of the tube. There are two reasons this can happen:

1. The part of the Toilet filling valve that floats and turns off the valve is not low enough to stop the water before it reaches the desired level. Just adjust the float to a lower position so it will stop the water at a lower level.

2. The other reason is the valve is worn and not stopping the water exiting the valve. Some valves have replacement “O” rings. You just need to turn off the water supply and remove the top of the valve. If there is no replacement part you will need to replace the Flush Valve Unit.

There are replacement kits that have easy to follow directions. As always, turn off the water supply before starting this repair. The repair consists of disconnecting the water supply pipe from the bottom of the tank. Then you unscrew the bold attaching the valve to the tank. Then detach the fill tube that is clipped to the overflow tube and lift the old valve from the tank. With the replacement valve, just reverse the process that you used to remove the old valve. When you turn on the water supply, make sure there is not any leaking. If there is, tighten the bolt or the end of the supply line a little more, being careful not to over tighten. Both should be about a quarter to a half turn past finger tightness. All you have to do now is turn on the water supply and adjust the float to stop the water at a level just below the top of the overflow tube. This will be on the instructions that came with the new valve.

Broken Flush Handle

There is another problem that is common and easy to replace. That is the handle/lever. The handle is often made of plastic and with all the use, it sometimes will crack. This mechanism is bolted on the inside of the tank.

First remove the chain that connect the lever to the flapper and then gently unscrew the bolt holing it to the tank. When purchasing a replacemnt look to make sure the replacement is for the same type of tank you have. It can be a front mounted or a side mounted handle. Again, just reverse the steps you used to remove the broken handle.

Leaking Toilet Bowl

The last common problem is when you see water leaking from under the bowl. This will happen when the toilet is flushed and is usually just a small amount of water. Unless someone hit the bowl with something hard and cracked it, and there is no water coming from where the tank connects to the bowl, it is probably coming from under the bowl.

This can happen over time from vibrations or movements of the bowl while in use. The cause is probably because the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor have loosened a little allowing the toilet to rock. Below the toilet, where the water exists the toilet and enters the drain pipe in the floor there is a “Wax Ring.” This is a ring made of a semi hard wax. When the toilet is installed, the wax ring is placed over the drain hole and the toilet is pressed down causing the wax to seal the connection.

This is not a difficult repair to perform. First turn off the water supply to the toilet. Then flush the toilet to empty the tank. Then using a plunger, try to remove as much water from the bowl as possible. You will not be able to remove all, so be prepared with a mop or towels to absorb the rest of the water that will come out when you disconnect the bowl from the floor. Then disconnect the water supply line to the tank and remove then loosen the bolts connecting the bowl to the floor. Once the nuts are removed, lift the toilet straight up and off the drain pipe. With gloves and a putty knife, remove the existing was ring.

Next place the new wax ring over the drain and carefully place the toilet back over the drain, making sure the bolts are through the holes in the base. Press the bowl firmly down to squeeze the wax ring and seal the connection. Do not turn the bowl as pressing and use a minimal of rocking motion. Then tighten the bolts to secure the bowl tightly to the floor. Now reconnect the water supply line to the toilet. All that is left is to turn on the water supply and let the tank fill. Once full, flush the toilet to prove you did a wonderful job and there is no more leak.

As you will learn, these are easy repairs that will not cost a lot of money. With you doing these repairs, you will save the expense of calling a plumber.

Whether you are a handy and confident Do it Yourselfer or a novice DIYer the first thing you need to do is set yourself up with the basic tools needed for most repairs or a handy project. The worst thing is to start a project and/or a repair and not have the basic needed tools to do the job.

With more complicated and intricate projects, more specialty tools might be required. Also you might find you want to upgrade your tool inventory to some of the more expensive cordless tools that have become more available and cheaper for the non-professional handyman.

One of the things to get on your first shopping expedition for your basic tools is a decent size toolbox. At first some will look too big for your needs, but over time, it will get so full you might need a second one. At that point you might decide to divide your tools into category toolboxes. Just remeber once you add your tools, the toolbox will get heavy. Do not buy one so big, when filled, it will be too heavy to carry. To remedy this, you might want to buy or make a tool carrier. You can place in it the tools and supplies needed for the project and then return to the tool box when done.

Even for the novice handyman, a basic home tool kit is essential to any household or apartment. Here’s what you’ll need.

Screwdrivers:

You need a set of straight and Philips screw drivers. They usually come in 3 main sizes. There are also manual and cordless power combination drivers with exchangeable bits.

Hammers:

There are different types of hammers. For the home handyman a basic claw hammer is the best type for most needs. There are different styles of handles, when shopping, pick up the different types and find the most comfortable type for you.

Cutting Sawing:

1. Utility knife. These come in different styles with segmented snapable blades or types with replacement blades. This is good for opening packages, trimming wood, plastic or rubber material.
2. Scissors.  These are also useful for opening packaging and trimming peel and stick materials. You should get one made of a strong material with a good solid blade.
3. A hack saw (for pipes and metals)
4. A small utility saw for wood

Gripping:

In this category, you should have plies and wrenches. To clarify the difference, (pair of) pliers are used to hold or bend, such as metal or wire. A wrench is to hold and twist, such as turning a nut or bolt and tighten plumbing fixtures.

1. Adjustable wrench (small).
2. Needle nose pliers
3. Slip-joint pliers

Measuring and Leveling:

1. Metal tape measure. 12 feet or longer, with increments marked – 1/8, 3/16 and so on.
2. Level – for these purposes, a small one, a foot or less in length.
3. Metal ruler – for measuring, and as a straight-edge to guide cutting.

Also needed in your basic tool kit is fastening items. A small selection of each is good to have available. The different types and amounts will increase over time. It is also advisable to purchase some type of container to hold and store these items.

1. Selection of screws, bolts, picture hangers, finishing nails.
2. Duct tape – for quick temporary repairs.
3. Electrical tape – for uncomplicated wire maintenance.
4. Sandpaper – Different grits (coarseness) used to smooth rough wood surfaces
5. Emory Paper – Similar to sandpaper uses but used on metal

Advise:

Another piece of advice is not buying the cheapest tools available. These are usually made of cheaper grade metal and will not last. Even though the better quality tools look expensive, in the long run, with the proper care, they can last a lifetime. Stanley and Craftsman are very good quality. Craftsman is a brand by Sears in America and come with a lifetime guarantee.

Also get into the habit to clean your tools when finished and keep them well organized. Leaving tools out can lead to misplacement or loss.

When using tools that get wet, dry them well and wipe with a cloth containing a light utility oil to prevent rusting.